Gardner’s expert, Lewis Reed, describes the mechanics of work and the properties of various models of carp hooks. What kind of hook shape to apply in a particular situation? Answers to many questions about carp hooks can be found in this manual.
Just browse any magazine or catalogue and you will find a stunning array of available hook patterns – some of them are for specific purposes, and some are based on common fundamental principles that provide good mechanics with a wider range of applications in fishing equipment.
Part 1. The choice of a hook for a particular situation
If we talk about carp hunters and the water bodies where we catch is based on the kind of equipment and bait used, and they can change from day to day and even from cast to cast. However, for many anglers, the exact factors that determine the correct solution are mixed in some disorder. In this article, I want to add some insight into the question of what makes a particular hook model suitable for a particular purpose.
There are separate elements that are universal. To begin with, all carp hooks are made of high-carbon steel. The transformation of a piece of wire into a finished hook cannot be called otherwise than miraculous, given the softness and flexibility of the raw material before processing.
The strength of the finished product is achieved through two processes.
- Firstly, it is forging, which serves to compact and flatten the wire, which helps the hook to gain a certain degree of extension resistance (by increasing the amount of material on the bending axis).
Although hooks are the most important element of the equipment, very few anglers know the diversity and mechanics of modern models.
Firstly, it is forging, which serves to compact and flatten the wire, which helps the hook to gain a certain degree of extension resistance (by increasing the amount of material on the bending axis).
Long shank mugga
- Effective penetrating ability, the total length promotes a turn in the mouth in the fish.
- A wide area of the forearm helps the hub faster to hit the target.
- Brilliantly works in snap-ups for pop-ups.
- The long forearm creates the main center of rotation on the ear of the hook, increasing the stiffness of the sting.
Secondly, hardening is performed. This is a carefully controlled process of heating and cooling, which changes the molecular-crystal structure of high-carbon steel and makes it much more rigid. The stage of hardening is absolutely critical, and any oversight here can be catastrophic.
Re-overfeeding makes the metal brittle, while too weak will not give the hook sufficient strength. Technical tolerances here have very narrow limits, and the best hook manufacturers, such as those supplied by Gardner, operate in Japan, where each product undergoes a strictly defined two-step hardening process that stably achieves the highest standard.
The hook is then stitched with a chemical etching process (this method of grinding was probably the biggest leap forward in the technology of carp hooks … all the time!) And finally put on it a galvanic or polymeric (Teflon) coating. And all this is done on an industrial scale, many thousands of pieces per cycle
Hooking a metal or other coating – an area that has changed radically in recent years, and each way has its pros and cons. Proponents of galvanic metal coatings, such as durable and reliable (but shiny) black nickel or newly embedded covert coatings, claim that they are thinner and are associated with hook steel at the molecular level, so they have the greatest possible perfection.
Tests show that large hooks are undoubtedly better than piercing the bony mouth of a fish such as , but are they behaving just as well in the fleshy mouth of carp? The jury’s opinions differ on this score, as with many other aspects of the Carp fishing.
Wide gape talon tip
- A slightly bent eye of this wide-gypsum forms an almost perfect angle of engagement with the tip of the tip.
- This ear creates a small torque that helps the hook to hit the lower lip.
- The initial engagement of the claw tip is not as effective as direct, but there are fewer fish losses.
Mugga
- The curved forearm and eyelet help improve the penetration and successful engagement of the straight sting.
- A low degree of rotation, like that of a waid-geyp, helps the hook to sit tightly when disengaging, reducing the likelihood of gatherings.
- The relatively straight angle of the thrust direction helps the hook to hold securely during the voyage.
The shapes and sizes of the hooks being created are extremely diverse, and this is the main subject of this article. But it would be premature to speculate on models for specific rigging and situations without considering the main, fundamental principle that all anglers should know, because it determines the way in which the hook penetrates into the mouth tissue of a fish.
In essence, the main factor is the angle between the tip of the sting (including the angle to which it is bent inward) and the eye. The idea of how effectively the hook will be pierced can be obtained by looking at the angle at which the sting touches the tissues when the eye is opposite a flat surface. If it is too large, the sting can catch the flesh, but then it will break through not through, but along, without fixing properly.
This is a fundamental principle, on which the design of the two modifications of Wide Gape Talon Tip and Mugga presented here is based, ensuring their high performance! Due to the introduction of the inwardly bent stitches and tabs into the design, manufacturers compensate for the imbalance of key properties that determine the ability of the hook to penetrate completely into the tissue, coordinating the direction of the traction applied to the eyelet with the direction in which the sting tends to go.
When you think about this key relationship between function and design, you will become more aware of the basis on which to design snap-fittings that work harmoniously with certain hook patterns, and why some models have specific technical characteristics – hence you will understand the reasons for the increase in the number of models that fill the market niches and meet the specific needs for specific equipment.
There are other tricks, which are used to make the model work successfully, for example, the bending of everything-the straight sting to the fore-end (not to be confused with the clawlike or beak-like, sting), but, in fact, it is again connected with the angle, under which the sting is attacked and pierces into the mouth in those crucial moments, until the hook enters the bend itself.
Thus, you see that the “basic principle of penetration” is the most important when making a hook that works well in a variety of rigging and fishing situations. The quenching process is carried out simultaneously for many thousands of hooks at ultra-high temperature.
After the appearance of new baits and tactical approaches, equipment was evolved, which naturally stimulated the development of new hooks, which took place in tandem with the development of new processes for their manufacture and finish. The last decade was an exciting period in terms of the quality and quantity of different models available to us, carp. You can even say that today’s choice, we are somewhat spoiled!
Chod hook
- Such a large angle worsens the cutting ability if you make the wrong choice of the stock material.
- The bent tab of the crochet hook prevents the reduction of the gap, which occurs in the case of a rigid lead.
- Hard material Gardner Tripwire makes this model work efficiently.
Incizor
- A large angle between the tip of the sting and the ear impairs the ability of the Incizor model to detect fish.
- A smaller angle and a straight sting improve the mechanics of the incision.
- Any curved guide tube this angle narrows, making the work of the Incizor hook super efficient.
I believe that I can really provide a very wide variety of functions of this or that hook model, using specific leash materials, changing the way of
binding the hook or supplementing the installation with a “kicker” – a ready-made Covert Hook Aligner, or a shrink tube Supa-Shrink.
The addition of a kicker introduces some changes to the geometry of the hook, which contribute both to its rotation and penetration into the tissues when the carp is taken by the nozzle. Effectively lengthening the forearm and approaching the point of retraction of the lead to the tip of the sting, you increase the penetrating ability of the since the stinger is fastened faster. After this moment, all tubular guide muffs and kickers from the thermotube under load tend to straighten, and the further occurrence of the sting is determined by the very design of this hook model.
The addition of a kicker extending the fore-end is also useful because the of the hook’s rotation is located further away from the tip of the tip, and, in effect, this change means that the hook will be better fixed slightly deeper in the mouth of the carp. The hook will not automatically turn over around the eyelet, but around the exit point of the leash from the tube, imitating the real long- or even models with a cranked or smoothly curved forearm without the potential threat of damaging the mouth of small carp.
At one time, the topic of hooks with a sharply curved fore-end (“banana”) was actively discussed. Today, many of us, carp croppers of the older generation, can recall the appearance of the first such models, which caused a stir among hunters for captured fish, because on account of these hooks was a string of magnificent large carp.
At the they had a distinctly pronounced kink, and they really aggressively unfolded in the mouth of the fish, but there were numerous observations that seemed to indicate their tendency to maim her lips
As a consequence, the use of such hooks was strictly prohibited in a number of water bodies. Having tested and evaluated many different patterns of hooks during the many years of fishing, I see that these are really fraught with injury – especially for small carp, which, when disguised, tend to rush, shake their heads and change the direction of movement more often than relatively calm old valleys.
Changing the shape of the forearm and the angle of rotation causes such a hook to work like a can opener, so it is not difficult to understand why the probability of damage to the mouth of a fish increases. Many hooks have a black nickel coating, famous for its high wear resistance and anti-corrosion properties.
Hooks with a long curved forearm work somewhat differently, but anglers using these models should always be aware of the possible injury of small carp and apply a flexible kicker that in general outlines the mechanics of hooks such as Long Shank Mugga. Nevertheless, there is no doubt that they work excellently, providing increased detection potential and extremely good penetrating power.
Part 2. General recommendations
In the second part of the article, I will try to give some of the most general recommendations as to which models should be used and when. One could just write that in this particular case it’s better to choose, say, the Wide Gape hook, and in the other, the Mugga model. But I believe that the presentation of this subject on a broader scale will be much more interesting: we will consider the factors that determine the choice of hook type, as well as the key characteristics of individual hook models.
It must be much better to begin to form a deep understanding of the properties of hooks by including information about your snap-ins. What are you trying to achieve with your snap-ins? Why would one model of the hook turn out to be better than the other, and how can you get the most out of the model you trust by fine-tuning its work with the “serif” mechanism?
Many variables here are associated with broader topics related to the leash materials and the nature of the bottom of the pond (mud, gravel, sand, clay). Nevertheless, in my opinion, the key is the size and buoyancy of the nozzle you use.
Concerning the logic of using small attachments over the rug of a small bait, and vice versa, many articles have already been written, and I have no desire to repeat the sensible arguments of other people.
In the evolution of hooks, as well as snap-ins, there are certain trends. The question of whether they are related to each other or developing in parallel is open to discussion, but the hook that successfully caught carp 20 years ago will certainly work just as well today, right? Do carp not continue to feed, in general, the same way?
Well, yes, and no, and it is here in the heads of many fishermen, young and old, there is some confusion, because a lot of opinions about the best hooks, scaffolds and rods are purely subjective, and not based on any strict rules, because every fisherman has his own individual experience and approach to business, his water reservoirs.
For example, take one rig (chod rig), as most know how it should look, in principle, and that its leash (as with the hinged stiff rig) is usually made from a rigid monofilament material with a high shape memory, such as a trip wire, which is given a smooth bend.
But the key point is to understand why you used just such a “crooked” hook, characterized by an ewer of medium length and a bent ears. In the case of the rigging chod rig, a fairly thick emerges from the ear of the hook at an angle, and the bent eye is designed to prevent a decrease in the working gap (which may worsen the cutting ability, since access to the jar will be slightly overlapped by the lead).
An inherent disadvantage of hooks of this type (similar to the Covert Chod Hook model) can in the fact that if the leash the necessary bend or if the insufficiently rigid material for it, their original manner of engagement would be spoiled.
The choice of the hook is, of course, determined by the type of the lead material. However, if we decide to choose a crocheted hook with a claw-like sting, these small details of the rigging design can be treated not so demanding without compromising its performance, but the potential for notching the hook also decreases noticeably.
This is a fine line of differences, but, in my opinion, if you competently knit a snap of this type, the hook with a straight sting will catch more.
Leaving the leash from the tab in the wrong direction worsens the snapping ability of the rig and makes it generally very inefficient. Instead of resolutely replacing the hook, Lewis likes to fix the sting with the Point Doctor. This rubberized abrasive bar allows you to sharpen the sting, improving its cutting ability.
Do you really need a bent eye? Well, if you have a hook with a straight eye, it is likely to work fine on a leash made from a material with a high shape memory – simply because you can bend the lead so that the hook is in the position you want! Thus, you can use a wider range of hooks (excluding models with a bent eye), going beyond the general theoretical recommendations.
This opens up the possibility of using models with a longer fore-end, on which the nozzle occupies a slightly different position relative to the sting, and gives scope for experimentation as part of our understanding of what works and what does not work if we talk about the desired position of the hook due to its shape and leash .
The choice of the hook is, of course, determined by the type of the lead material. However, if we decide to choose a crocheted hook with a claw-like sting, these small details of the rigging design can be treated not so demanding without compromising its performance, but the potential for notching the hook also decreases noticeably.
This is a fine line of differences, but, in my opinion, if you competently knit a snap of this type, the hook with a straight sting will catch more.
Leaving the leash from the tab in the wrong direction worsens the snapping ability of the rig and makes it generally very inefficient. Instead of resolutely replacing the hook, Lewis likes to fix the sting with the Point Doctor. This rubberized abrasive bar allows you to sharpen the sting, improving its cutting ability. Do you really need a bent eye?
Well, if you have a hook with a straight eye, it is likely to work fine on a leash made from a material with a high shape memory – simply because you can bend the lead so that the hook is in the position you want! Thus, you can use a wider range of hooks (excluding models with a bent eye), going beyond the general theoretical recommendations.
This opens up the possibility of using models with a longer fore-end, on which the nozzle occupies a slightly different position relative to the sting, and gives scope for experimentation as part of our understanding of what works and what does not work if we talk about the desired position of the hook due to its shape and leash .
And what about one of the most commonly used rigs for bottom, drowning or balanced baits? Is she good or not? Unless you release the leash from the wrong side of the eyelet or pay attention to such a key part as the hair retreat from the rear (and not from the side) side of the forearm, you will have to try a damn thing to tie a rig that is absolutely useless!
But how then to choose the right hook for your fishing situation or your own approach to this type of rigging.
The best advice is to tie several rigs with different hooks, taking into account that the size of the nozzle plays the primary role in choosing its size, and making a hair that allows a slight flexibility of the link between the hook and the vent, but not falling here at either extreme, nor in the other.
A good starting point is a configuration in which the nozzle touches the bending of the hook. In the context of these snap-ins, I would choose between hooks with a clawed and straight sting based merely on the length of the leash.
For example, a very short leash, which is usually stuck in a single PVA-package, as you would expect, is better suited for a model with a “claw”. With this equipment, the angle of thrust will most likely be initially small, and thanks to the use of bait from small grains and granules, the fish will not move much, picking up these tasty particles practically at one place (hence, the short leash will be most effective).
In this scenario, it would not be a mistake to make a model with a straight sting, but in this there is an increased probability that an ultra-short leash will cause bad initial engagement and even jump out of the hook after you pull the fishing line.
In the case of a longer lead of a traditional size, the angle of pull will allow the hook with a straight stump to penetrate the tissue more successfully at the initial stage. Although a clawed sting would work in this situation, here again it is necessary to estimate a slight improvement in the hook’s ability to initial engagement with subsequent penetration, which is most important. In fact, only the first moments are problematic, when the hook only begins to pierce.
As soon as the stinger is firmly settled and completely embedded in the tissue until the bend, it is done, and you are unlikely to lose fish because the hook pops up. It happens mostly before the sting is fully inserted. And in this respect, the extreme advantage is really provided by hooks without a beard – its absence clearly reduces the force required to completely insert the sting, and increases the penetration rate. There probably is food for thought.
A hook without a barb is more effective at the initial stage of engagement because the resistance created by it is absent.
The editor of the magazine asked me for a summary. For this article to indicate his opinion as to which hook is best suited for a particular case, and for the time being. I will only name a few of my favourites for specific applications: for example, a small Mugga hook for zig rig rigging and tubes Hook Aligner; model Wide Gape Talon Tip – for fishing with a snap in PVA-package; hooks Chod Hook and Incizor – for choda, snap hinged stiff and D-rig. Bringing a more comprehensive list of my advice on the optimal choice of the hook for every conceivable situation would probably be the wrong way forward.
A hook with a clawed tip works best on a short leash in combination with a single PVA-package.
Of course, I fully and unshakably believe that our Gardner hooks cover the vast majority of fishing situations! I managed to catch fish on every model of this line, and therefore I know that they are all excellent.
Nevertheless, it is much more constructive to give a fundamental idea of how these hooks work, and I hope that readers will appreciate the sincerity of intentions and the logic invested in the development and development of a specialized line of carp hooks that Gardner Tackle designed, manufactured and sold for decades. Famous fish, nicknamed Fagburn. The key factor in her capture was Lewis’ correct selection of the hook.
The truth is that, after a little reflection, you can easily make most hooks work according to the requirements for a particular snap-be it the installation of pop-ups or sinking boilies, a bundle of maggots or an imitation corn seed from Enterprise Tackle.
Summary: the understanding of hooks’ peculiarities is a key to success
If you understand how the hook works, it is very easy to achieve the ultimate goal by making rigs that can catch carp and deliver it to the shore. Modern “fine-tuning” and adjustments – adding a piece of shrink tubing here or a ring ring ring there – really allow the hook to show all its potential. While you do not break the mechanics of the hook, which is naturally embedded in the design of most models, you can play for fun!
As one of the most significant revelations, a large group of anglers suggested that I call the realisation that the arsenal of rigging with which you can catch carp is very extensive and varied! Find the bait that brings you good results in combination with the crochet and snaps that you prefer, and everything else is pure. Do not be too picky – if any element adds to you at least one per cent confidence, take it into service.